Building a Yamaha engined R1ot

[Ian Kelly]

In that case you have 2 choices with the clutch. Either the barnett convertion but which lots have done and I've not heard of any problems, or put 2 diaphragm springs in instead of one in your current set up. Thats the cheaper option and works well from what I've heard, giving less clutch slip and more feel. The big down side with the diaphragm clutch is that if your pedal arangement causes the release lever to overthrow, then the spring turns inside out (doesn't return on it's own) and then the clutch won't engage. Your left at the side of the road stipping it down.
Whichever one you chose stay with genuine Yamaha plates.

My old R1 Fury with 5PW engine had done 8.5k miles when I sold it last year, I doubled the standard clutch spring plates and it worked really well. I put a bolt through the footwell behind the clutch pedal that I used to prevent the clutch being pushed in too much. I had to adjust the pedal stop once to allow more travel, but it all worked really well.

Enjoy the build, keep the motivation up, it get's much, much harder to get into the garage in the middle of winter, so enjoy the (relative) warmth!

Ian

[toltec]

Managed to get the spigot rings for centering the rear discs turned up at the weekend, it is off the trestles and down on the wheels now.



Shortened the steering extension from 400mm to 85mm. This was done by cutting 42mm from one end then drilling the centre out to 9mm diameter to a depth of 20mm and a chamfer put on the end to be joined. The other end was cut to about 65mm and the mating end turned down to a tight fit in the 9mm hole in the other section leaving 43mm at full diameter except for a chamfer. The peg end was then trimmed to 18mm long and the mating piece pushed on. The two chamfers together then form a root groove ready for welding, this was done with the lathe turning at minimum rpm using a tig welder. Once cooled the weld excess was removed.



Turned up some ptfe inserts for the pedals and made up the pedals ready for welding. The brake pedal should come out about 6.25:1 and yes it is bent, I made up a test form in timber and decided I wanted the pedal to be slightly further to the right. The smaller piece between the pedals at the bottom is to be welded on to the bottom of the brake pedal to give spacing so my toes do not end up pressing the pedal upright.



Other random stuff - I wanted to clean out the caliper lug threads on the front uprights and could not find any definitive statement of what they were, Capri MK2/3 also used on the RS2000. I found the 1.25mm pitch gauge was a good fit, however this is also near enough to an imperial 20/inch pitch so could be either. The internal thread diameter was 9.4mm, this is too small for a 12x1.25, but a little calculation showed it is near enough right for a 7/16 unf. Buying a tap proved I was right...

[toltec]

The pedals are welded up, the only issue I had, apart from being out of practice, was the tube for the balance bar bore closed up a little and I had to use a file and sanding drum to open it back out to fit.

I plan to fit the calipers and get the brakes bled so I can check for leaks on the brake union while they are still easy to get at. Any body know a good supplier for Mintex pads, the best price I have found online for the rear Mini calipers is £88.

I can depress the pedal all the way to the bulkhead so I want to make sure I leave enough travel to prevent bottoming out. Any ideas on how much travel is should be allowed for?

[deecee]

Try Questmead Ltd, Pioneer House, Regent Street, Rochdale, Lancashire, OL12 0HQ, 01706 860088, sales@questmead.co.uk, http://www.questmead.co.uk
for Mintax pads. They say trade only but I have bought from them in the past.