Hydraulic or mechanical the force required is same - the difference in effort at the pedal is purely down to the mechanical leverage - the clutch plate will need what it needs the difference between Mech and Hydraulic is down to the fact that Hydraulic is self adjusting - and more expensive than a cable. If you want a softer pedal move the pivot points, the clutch will be longer but require less effort.
Andrew
Fury Spyder Duratec build
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- Posts: 64
- Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2010 1:01 am
- Name: Andrew Smith
- Location: Wem, Shropshire
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- Posts: 64
- Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2010 1:01 am
- Name: Andrew Smith
- Location: Wem, Shropshire
Re: Fury Spyder Duratec build
Well its been a while since any really productive work was done but we made an effort at the weekend.
Decisions were made - A) not to go running around the country on Ducati's B)Not to spend all day infront of the telly watching moto Gp's amd F1 Gp's - " lucky really as as both were dull as after the first 4 laps.
So what's happened
Firstly all the brakes are sorted and brackets welded back on where they were removed and some spurious holes in the chassis welded up. The final electrical connections and cables were completed and run around to all the lamps and pumps and senders etc.
Took an age in the heat but at least two feett of the car is 90% complete
Andrew
Decisions were made - A) not to go running around the country on Ducati's B)Not to spend all day infront of the telly watching moto Gp's amd F1 Gp's - " lucky really as as both were dull as after the first 4 laps.
So what's happened
Firstly all the brakes are sorted and brackets welded back on where they were removed and some spurious holes in the chassis welded up. The final electrical connections and cables were completed and run around to all the lamps and pumps and senders etc.
Took an age in the heat but at least two feett of the car is 90% complete

Andrew
- PaulW7
- Posts: 62
- Joined: Fri Jul 17, 2009 8:22 pm
- Name: Paul Willetts
Re: Fury Spyder Duratec build
Chapter 4-7 - "And the first lost sole sees the light and returns to the path of kit car glory....." praise praise,
You are not alone, my Striker recovery programme is suffering from the same plans greater than commitment issue.
Perhaps we should have a motivational support group section on the forum.
"thank you brother" , I will try to follow in your footsteps and get some garage hours in....
All the best...
Paul.

You are not alone, my Striker recovery programme is suffering from the same plans greater than commitment issue.
Perhaps we should have a motivational support group section on the forum.
"thank you brother" , I will try to follow in your footsteps and get some garage hours in....
All the best...
Paul.
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- Posts: 64
- Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2010 1:01 am
- Name: Andrew Smith
- Location: Wem, Shropshire
Re: Fury Spyder Duratec build
Cheers Paul,
Plan is to try and continue the momentum - progress hopefully taking the sting out the next purchase of a Raceline low level cam cover
- this weekend. If we find any spare "restored enthusiasm" whilst clearing up I will make sure I send it over to you.
Andrew
Plan is to try and continue the momentum - progress hopefully taking the sting out the next purchase of a Raceline low level cam cover

Andrew
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- Posts: 120
- Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2011 6:41 pm
- Name: Micha mertens
Re: Fury Spyder Duratec build
i´m a bit concerned about your exhaust:
as every exhaust expands when getting hot, also the engine is moving (tilting) slightly during driving, you need to have a device which compensates the movment also the expansion, otherwise, sooner or later the exhaust (manifold, downpipe, collector) will crack.
its interesting that nearly 99% of the UK-kitcars have a solid exhaust construction. normally the 4in1 collector could be used to get a "flexible" connection:
the pipework is only inserted into each other, hold in place by springs (like on motorbikes)

alternatively you could fit a flexible hose/pipe between downpipe and silencer.

as every exhaust expands when getting hot, also the engine is moving (tilting) slightly during driving, you need to have a device which compensates the movment also the expansion, otherwise, sooner or later the exhaust (manifold, downpipe, collector) will crack.
its interesting that nearly 99% of the UK-kitcars have a solid exhaust construction. normally the 4in1 collector could be used to get a "flexible" connection:
the pipework is only inserted into each other, hold in place by springs (like on motorbikes)

alternatively you could fit a flexible hose/pipe between downpipe and silencer.

Last edited by micha on Sun Jul 10, 2011 12:07 am, edited 1 time in total.
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- Name: Andrew Smith
- Location: Wem, Shropshire
Re: Fury Spyder Duratec build
Thanks for the concern - but its not an issue I have ever had with exhausts without slip on connections of the primaries or seconadries or flexibles on cars or bikes and I have had a few.
Cheers
Andrew
Cheers
Andrew
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- Posts: 120
- Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2011 6:41 pm
- Name: Micha mertens
Re: Fury Spyder Duratec build
interestingwise all of my cars and ex-cars and my mate´ s cars suffered from that problem...
the problem often is, that lots of kit-cars dont get used very often, but we often drive more miles in 3 months than the former owner(s) have driven in 3 years...and than those things become critical.
the problem often is, that lots of kit-cars dont get used very often, but we often drive more miles in 3 months than the former owner(s) have driven in 3 years...and than those things become critical.
- RobMsport
- Posts: 704
- Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2009 2:36 pm
- Name: Rob Farley
- Location: Aston Clinton , BUCKS
Re: Fury Spyder Duratec build
My manifold and exhaust is solid joined without incident over ten years . One crucial point though is to fit the single silencer carrier ' onto ' a bracket via a rubber NOT solid . This way a little flex is allowed for plus if fitted onto rather than slung under the bracket , the rubber lasts years . I've still got my original one from ten years ago .
- matt_gsxr
- Posts: 291
- Joined: Tue Jul 14, 2009 2:18 pm
- Name: Matthew Robson
- Location: Oxford
Re: Fury Spyder Duratec build
Interesting generalisation statements on exhaust mounting and UK kit car usage from Micha.
I don't doubt that adding some flex has its advantages, but the statement that 99% of cars don't include a flexible section sort of suggests to me that it isn't necessary. Interestingly Caterham don't build in a flexible section (manual here http://www.caterham.co.uk/assets/html/t ... y-2010.pdf ).
Of the tin-tops I have owned only the more recent turbo-charged models had a flexi, and you never see flexi sections on motorcycles.
I'm with Rob, make sure the silencer is supported in a way that doesn't stress the exhaust as it is heated.
Matt
I don't doubt that adding some flex has its advantages, but the statement that 99% of cars don't include a flexible section sort of suggests to me that it isn't necessary. Interestingly Caterham don't build in a flexible section (manual here http://www.caterham.co.uk/assets/html/t ... y-2010.pdf ).
Of the tin-tops I have owned only the more recent turbo-charged models had a flexi, and you never see flexi sections on motorcycles.
I'm with Rob, make sure the silencer is supported in a way that doesn't stress the exhaust as it is heated.
Matt
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- Posts: 64
- Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2010 1:01 am
- Name: Andrew Smith
- Location: Wem, Shropshire
Re: Fury Spyder Duratec build
Another progressive weekend - and I promise tro get some photo's taken very soon.
Wiring has now really got started - and ridiculous "to me" items like the reversing light switch and the hand brake warming lights have been wired up - the main loom is in at the dash and the front looms are through into the engine bay and the ignition switch is now spliced in to the loom - Just loads of soldering to do next to get the Sierra switch gear integrated into the loom wiring.
Slowly moving forward to the noisy end
Andrew
Wiring has now really got started - and ridiculous "to me" items like the reversing light switch and the hand brake warming lights have been wired up - the main loom is in at the dash and the front looms are through into the engine bay and the ignition switch is now spliced in to the loom - Just loads of soldering to do next to get the Sierra switch gear integrated into the loom wiring.
Slowly moving forward to the noisy end
Andrew
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