Goodwood - 28th April

[RobMsport]

More of the same ----- actuator was bolted tight to the spacer/gearbox front plate but the front plate came undone using fingers on the ratchet , also the cork gasket was crushed pretty thin . That was obviously allowing any oil from the box bearing to pass the gasket. There's oil leaking from the box bearing so although the seal isn't obvious(can't see it but never put a box together)it must be knackered.
I'll get the box out for checking but at the moment it looks like , seals , gaskets all round plus find out what torque lbft values should be applied to this three part actuator and the four bell housing to box bolts.
This only occured since a replacement head went on in Feb 2011 with a rev limit increase at 8000rpm ----- it's never happened over 10yrs till now , so I'm assuming there's a sort of resonance with the bolts at those rev's I've had the engine/box out more than once and bolted everything up without issues. Basically the car's done 8 events since being bolted back up ---- very few miles .
Perhaps I should use a stronger threadlocker as well as the spring washers . Not sure that drilling and wiring the bolt heads would stop them loosening / just stop them unscrewing
The actuator from BURTONS didn't have any torque advice nor any spring washers for it's 7 bolts

[RobMsport]

Just been advised of a company called NORDLOCK by a turbosport contact and having watched their video about washers , I now believe their double cam/grip washers are the answer

[RobMsport]

Nordlock's arriving next week via an '' OLD FORD '' Turbosport contact ---- aren't forums great

[RobMsport]

Rebuilt clutch master and hydraulic nose cylinders , gearbox drained/looks ok so cleaned and painted top cover. Fitted all new seals and gasket sets and it's back in the car complete with bell housing plus new box mount. There's no info anywhere not even at Burtons regarding torque settings for the ally hydraulic nose and front cover , so it's got 12lbft on the front cover bolts and 10lbft on the nose , being ally into ally --- locktite blue for good measure. All threads washed out with brake cleaner so it should get a decent grip.
The ally bell housing normally has 66lbft for it's four bolts but seeing as it fell apart , I fitted Nordlock washers and locktite blue torqued up to 81lbft (Nordlock advise an increase of 20% with lube/locktite in my case)
Did some scraping and bilthamber plus paint around the pedal box where the master cylinders fit , plus some chassis tubes that were scratched and rusty. A bit more of the same tomorrow around the engine bay lower chassis tubes then Monday the engine can go back in .
All I need then is gearbox oil and some Water Wetter and all ' should ' be well again

[RobMsport]

Engine in Monday but not plumbed or wired so that's all been done today plus a bit of tidying and painting various bits. Just need to set the throttle cable for full travel and if box oil , grease and water wetter arrive tomorrow , I can start her up then refit the flip front
With hindsight this has been a lesson for me --------------------------------------------to thoroughly clean the threads with brake cleaner before using the locktite I just wound the bolt in and out to move the old stuff then cleaned them out with a small teapot brush so obviously some oil was still in the box front cover threads --- not so certain about the bell housing bolts loosening though because the threads don't go ''into'' the box where oil could be contacted BUT they've got 15lbft more torque this time plus the Nordlock's

[RobMsport]

It's running again now with all issues sorted ---- I think Just needs the flip front put on and a tidy up.

[dopdog]

Well done Rob ready for our next outing

[RobMsport]

Think I might just drive it like this , then I could see what the wheels are doing like 7 types

[dopdog]

That is the way forward just put a small nose cone on it and job done.