Rear brake line routing.

[Jek]

Dear all,

I'm looking for some advice on routing my rear brake flexi hoses.

I originally ordered some up with the intent of routing them under the top wishbone as shown. All looks fine in full droop, but under full bump things go a bit awry. Lots of twist is introduced into the line, and it just doesn't seem right!

Any thoughts? Problem I see is that if I make them a bit longer and route them over the top wishbone, they'll probably want to clash with the handbrake cable a lot.

Many thanks,
Jek

[dopdog]

What car is this from? that top link looks a bit suspect with that rose joint

with regards to the brack line it looks twisted before the movement! I agree it should be under the wishbone but start with it not so twisted. I may be wrong but does look like it.

[Jek]

I think you may be right. I can probably adjust some initial twist out of it at the top fitting, but still think the flexi hose is going to want to bunch up on itself somewhat. Has anyone routed theirs over the top wishbone?

The car is a BGH Fury. I agree with you on the top link. Like so much of the detail on the Fury, its a bit crude! Its just a hex bolt with the head welded to the bushing housing. I haven't set the camber up properly yet (currently its set to vertical at full droop) but I'm hoping to have to wind it in a fair bit as I'm not particularly happy with that much exposed thread. I've not heard of any of the IRS Furys having problems in this area having said that.

[dopdog]

looking at the pictures the wishbone travels above the brake line mounting so I would say it would foul? might be the angle. someone will come along and show us the way

[adithorp]

From what I can see, I'd be thinking of putting a support braket on the upright to hold the flexi in the middle. A piece of hose, split, then slipped over the flexi and piece of strip screwed to the upright with a hoop bent on the other end to push the hose into or just zip-tie the hose to the strip. Lot's of tin-tops have brackets like that (Fiesta's, Punto's) so it should be OK for IVA, as long as it's secure and won't fridge against anything.
I've got Wilwoods mounted infront of the hub so not a comparison.

The top bush arrangement is the same on mine (and others). It'll probably be quite a bit further in than thatwhen set-up. I'd like something different like longer 'bones, but it's been good for 15000 hard miles.

Howmuch more have you got to do and are you going to Stoneleigh?

[RobMsport]

Regarding the TOP bolt welded to the joint housing , although I don't like that much thread showing , the load during that suspension's travel while driving , is on the bottom joint where the shock/spring unit is being pivoted from.
Having said that , my front suspension on the Stylus with it's rocking arms has National rodends on the outer TOP joints , where all the load is , against all engineering advice. This is how the car's been since the 2005 season and even after hitting a tree at Eelmoor in 2008 , some of the 10 rodends snapped BUT not the TOP rodend (I replaced the steering and outer rodends as a matter of common sense after that incident though)

[Jek]

Thanks for the responses all. A bracket on the upright sounds like the way to go, cheers.

Re the top mount, that's good to hear yours were wound in a bit more Adi, and as you point out Rob, rod ends are used in a similar fashion on many race cars without issue. So a little crude it may be, but if its simple and it works, then I've got no issues.

Adi, I still have a fair bit to do, but its mostly wiring and bodywork now. Mechanically, I'm getting there. My job involes working away quite a lot and I've been struggling to get time at home to work on the car. I've arranged a couple of months leave of absence over the summer to blitz it, so I hope to be on the road before the autumn.

I'd like to make it down to Stoneleigh as its a great motivation, but I think i'd be better locking myself in the shed with some wire and a crimping tool!