Fury queries

[Yazza54]

Thanks

Just ordered a bigger dry cell battery, see how it goes. Ordered the screen now, took your advice Jeff, gone for STD size rather than oversize. Got the pads now and ordered the master cylinder that Bgh recommended. If that doesn't work it's bye-bye hispec and hello wilwood.

Fitted a air feed to the filter as last time I drove it the filter was really quite warm when I felt it. May help, may not... Seems a good idea anyway. Will post pics and my findings on the velocity stacks and slide stops when they're fitted. Got the headlight covers to fit too. Lots going on

[Ian Kelly]

[quote="Yazza54"]:lol:

Slight update on the brakes...spoke to BGH and they say the front master cyl should be 6.25..which it is. However they say the rear should be 7, but mine is 6.75. So maybe there's not enough bias going to the front?

Hi Ryan,

I might be wrong, but I think the brake bias front to rear is determined more by the bias bar setting rather than the master cylinder size. I think so anyway. You could tweak the bias bar maybe?? I tried this in the past and couldn't get the roll-pin out! (you'd need to take the panel off above the pedal box to access).

If there wasn't enough bias going to the front then you'd be more likely to lock the rears, which I've never done. If anything I thought that too much bias was going forwards and the rears were underworked! If you feel the rear discs after a blat they are only warm.

The front pads are 1144 Mintex FYI.

"Think I need a new battery too, not holding charge very well...not the end of the world. Has it been on since build Ian?"

Aye, the battery is the original, but I'm honestly surprised you're having starting problems. I've only ever had it not start once, admittedly that was after leaving the car for a month after the Alps trip without the optimate attached. It's probably 4 years old, so maybe it's getting near the end of its life.

Cheers, Ian

[Yazza54]

The battery may be okay after a good stint on the optimate to be honest like you say. I'll leave it on overnight and see how it is in the morn, I've probs been stopping it halfway through it's cycle. I've got a 'thing' about leaving stuff on overnight. Like 'what if it sets on fire and burns the house down while I'm asleep'.

If I'm honest I did give the batt a bit of a hard time the first few hours of driving it as I kept stalling then restarting it. I thought it'd be a good idea to drive through the centre of manc to force me to get used to the clutch, it worked...kinda!

Mmm I thought that too Ian, but they tell me it will make the pedal feel better. Dunno, it's what they recommend and it's not an expensive thing to buy. Weather permitting I'll try standing on the brakes a bit harder if I get out in it tomorrow!

[Yazza54]

Few bits of footage here

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xpFuXWZoIhE

Short shifting in the poor weather but sounds sweet

[RobMsport]

I prefer the larger cylinder , say 0.75 up front to give a firm pedal then 0.625 at the rear. The bias bar can then be tweeked to suit . Using a really good pad up front will help too . Hawk black or better still DTC30 . A small cylinder gives too much mechanical advantage up front , especially when heal/ toeing .

[Yazza54]

That's odd. BGH told me that the larger one for the rear will firm up the pedal.

Anyway...

Installed the slide stops, the slides are still in the throttle bodies but held fully open. Looking forward to seeing what difference it makes.

[adithorp]

You should have the smaller bore master cylinder on the front circuit. That gives more presure to the front brakes. Pedal travel isn't altered by which way around they are, just the presure distribution. It takes a while to get used to non-servo brakes.

I dont know how the optimate works but, back in the day, to de-sulphate a battery we used to charge them then discharge through a couple of headlight bulbs and then recharge. If the optimate does something simlar that'd explain flat battery when you stopped it mid cycle. These days de-sulphating is a bit old hat; Modern batteries don't seem to suffer the same with sulphating.

I'm only in Stalybridge if you fancy poping over for a chat.

adrian

[Yazza54]

Cheers adi, I'm going to swap the pads this weekend and master cyl Probs the following weekend. Be interesting to see what difference it makes... If any! Yeah will have to pop up sometime weather permitting and all that!

[matt_gsxr]

Regarding Hawk pads.

I have some on the front, they do work well, but can be a bit scary when pads are cold on the road. Especially when stepping from an overly assisted servo equipped car.

Robs vehicle usage can only be described as "full on", which is a bit more serious then mine. Do you agree Rob?

Incidentally my pads came direct from Westfeld via e-bay for £10, and I assume it was because they stopped supplying them to their customers

Matt

[RobMsport]

Well sprinting's like that but my use of brakes is similar to my throttle which is to squeeze rather hit ! The Hawk DTC30 are very easy to modulate and pull the speed off like magic without drama