Steering wheel buttons, help needed.

[pigeondave]

Hi all,

As it's quiet here I thought I'd ask a question to try to generate some traffic.

After touring this year and realising that the TomTom takes up a lot of windscreen space (I can't see all the way up left hand hairpins), I thought I'd make a mount for it.

This is what I was thinking of it looking like

IMG_1123 by pigeondave, on Flickr

While thinking about the mount I also realised that it be nice to have a push to talk (PTT) button for the radio. So I went about CADing this up.

IMG_1209 by pigeondave, on Flickr

The idea is to fold the metal and the fold line in the pic above so that I have a place to stick the TomTom

image_123986672 (1) by pigeondave, on Flickr

Question is.

Do I need a little stress relieving circle where the wing of the button meets the fold of the TomTom holder bit?

image (1) by pigeondave, on Flickr

Also do you think it would be better to fix the TomTom or have it move with the wheel.

Im getting the plate laser cut as I've had good results with lasermaster before (air filter back plate).

Dave

[peter030371]

What thickness material will you use? I am not sure the stress will be that high on only a small PTT button. Pressing it harder won't make it work any better

[pigeondave]

What thickness material will you use? I am not sure the stress will be that high on only a small PTT button. Pressing it harder won't make it work any better

Was thinking mild steel 2.5mm and then trying to do some bluing. Actually what is the finish to the OMP wheels?

I'm thinking more about the manufacture of it and want to avoid a naff looking cut

WB1 by pigeondave, on Flickr

[ruaricoles]

Hello Dave, surely have the Tomtom fixed rather than moving with the wheel - the latter sounds like potential for a whole world of pain, and you wouldn’t be able to see it with much steering lock on anyway.

In which case, just mount the Tomtom directly to the dash in front of the wheel, and simplify your PTT button mount further, or even get a small enough button that you can mount it straight through the steering wheel spoke?

[pigeondave]

In which case, just mount the Tomtom directly to the dash in front of the wheel, and simplify your PTT button mount further, or even get a small enough button that you can mount it straight through the steering wheel spoke?

You're the second person who has questioned the moving with the wheel and I'm starting to go that way too.

Regarding drilling the wheel spoke for a button, I'd prefer not to drill the wheel.

As a side note i got these buttons already from JJC race and rally (who call them Trillogy Race / Rally Dash / Steering Wheel Momentary Push Button )
look out for ebay voucher codes as they work on the JJC shop.
https://www.apem.com/uk/serie-il-12.html
its the IL non illuminated flying lead terminals. curved actuator.

Many places call them 10mm mounting holes but they're not . You can see the shape on the cad drawing.

[jeffw]

As somebody who has a lead from the steering wheel to the dash I'd go for something like this

http://blinkstop.co.uk/shop/index.php?r ... ry&path=59

[peter030371]

D shaped holes are very common for push buttons they help to stop them twisting. I fitted 4 like that through holes drilled in my first Strikers steering wheel. I drove it for 18 years with no problems.

Is your wheel quick release? Can't be 100% sure from the pictures. If not then a curly cord will work fine

[pigeondave]

Is your wheel quick release? Can't be 100% sure from the pictures. If not then a curly cord will work fine

Yep is quick release, the third pic shows it propped up against the sub.

What do you think about having the TomTom move with the wheel or stay static with the column?

[peter030371]

I would fix the Tomtom. If they combine an IMU with the GPS for better accuracy (which I would think many do) then steering will give you very odd guidance I also think its easier to focus on a display when its not moving.

This was my first Striker which I rebuilt in the very late 90's



The curly cord was just a phone handset cable and the XLR connector on the dashboard allowed me to unplug it when I took the steering wheel off to get in and out. Worked very well for over 18 years and then I sold the car.

On the second Striker I went a bit further;


I have 8 buttons now (4 for the Dash2, 2 indicators, horn and main beam) and they all connect through the Lemo connector built into the QR and steering column.



On this one I had a carbon plate CNC'd for the buttons to get the best spacing, works a treat

The Freewheel system from Blinkstop gets good reviews but I am not sure it was available when I did my build and even if it had been it would have cost more than the proper wired QR connector.

[pigeondave]

I have 8 buttons now (4 for the Dash2, 2 indicators, horn and main beam) and they all connect through the Lemo connector built into the QR and steering column.

Do you have any information on this connector you speak of?

I came close to buying a pre wired one off mshindy which came off an indy car. It was the steering column top half and a QR.