SSC Stylus... new owner

[Boondougal]

New shiny stopping thingnyjigs installed today... only on one side and then I found out I had the wrong pads so couldn't go much further. Started to get coolant in her as well, tried to start her up but battery was flat.

Ps what the thoughts on how tight the hub nut should be, I got it pretty tight but have read conflicting info.

[Boondougal]

New pads in, engine started and sounded pretty good.
Coolant everywhere... air lock assumed.

[adithorp]

Ps what the thoughts on how tight the hub nut should be, I got it pretty tight but have read conflicting info.

Assuming you mean the front hub... It's vital that the nut isn't "tight".The bearngs require slight end float or they'll not last very long... depending on what you consider"pretty tight" that could be hours.

Adjust the nut to where it starts to require torque to go any more (use fingers or a pair of pliers) then back it off a bit (shouldn't need more than one flatand more likely 1/2). With the wheel fitted you should JUST be able to feel (but not see) the play by pulling/pushing the top/bottom of the wheel. A little bit of trial and error might be required. Once your happy it's as little play as you can achieve fit the lock washer/split pin/cap. Always give the hub a spin after adjusting before feeling to settle the bearings. With practice you don't need to do the wheel wobble bit.

[Boondougal]

Ps what the thoughts on how tight the hub nut should be, I got it pretty tight but have read conflicting info.

Assuming you mean the front hub... It's vital that the nut isn't "tight".The bearngs require slight end float or they'll not last very long... depending on what you consider"pretty tight" that could be hours.

Adjust the nut to where it starts to require torque to go any more (use fingers or a pair of pliers) then back it off a bit (shouldn't need more than one flatand more likely 1/2). With the wheel fitted you should JUST be able to feel (but not see) the play by pulling/pushing the top/bottom of the wheel. A little bit of trial and error might be required. Once your happy it's as little play as you can achieve fit the lock washer/split pin/cap. Always give the hub a spin after adjusting before feeling to settle the bearings. With practice you don't need to do the wheel wobble bit.

Super useful input, I definite have it way too tight then, really appreciate that. Thankyou

[adithorp]

You're welcome. Done thousands over the years. Back when DIY servicing was more common,we used to sell people service parts on Sat and then the car would be booked in for wheel bearings a few days later after they'd "adjusted" them. Either that or to gap the point properly
Also worth bearing in mind they need less grease (and more space) than most people think. From ancient memory I think 1/3rd grease to 2/3rd space was recommended though never seemed nearly enough (50/50 is OK). A thick bead around the outer races, a dollop (the si unit for grease) between them, plenty rubbed into the rollers/cage/inner races and a smear on the seal should be enough... and the cap certainly doesn't need to be packed as may people do; it's just a dirt/weather seal.

[Boondougal]

all excellent bits of advice that for the cost of one split pin is definitely worth going back to the hub and ensuring I follow.

thanks again.

[Boondougal]

Advice taken and passenger front is now buttoned back up, wheel on, car dropped and moved over in my lock up so I could get to the other side.

Back up on stands, wheels off and front hub stripped down, disc replaced, top ball joint replaced... looking good until I see the mother of all splits in the steering rack gator....

That put pay to reassembling everything so moved on to the rears and after a good clean with brake cleaner the shoes and associated fitting look brand new so I left it all alone.

Battery booster for starting has decided not too charge so I have a charger and a booster on order, fingers crossed next week I can iron out those air locks in the coolant.

Just trying to decide on what do do with the body work now....it's not exactly a massive spray job but the gel coat is in pretty poor condition in some areas.

[jeffw]

Wheel bearing failure is pretty nasty, especially on new bearings which you have "tighten" up....ask me how I know

Happened to me a long time ago on the Phoenix at Brands, makes a mess of the hub/disc/wheel.

[Boondougal]

Wheel bearing failure is pretty nasty, especially on new bearings which you have "tighten" up....ask me how I know

Happened to me a long time ago on the Phoenix at Brands, makes a mess of the hub/disc/wheel.

eek... sounds like there is no price you can put on experience.. especially if it is others that paid the price in the first place. Thats what so great about the internet and forums like this.

I must admit that once I went back and slackened it off and re did the castle nut and split pin I could for the first time understand what job those did. I just didn't see how the nut had enough torque for it to stay on but of course it can not turn due to the castle cap thingy.... like many thanks, its obvious once you actually stop for second to contemplate it.

[jeffw]

It should spin freely (the wheel that is) and it should just feel like it moves when you rock it side to side. Adi will correct me but it is something like go tight and then wind it off by a 1/4 turn and test (with the wheel on).