JPSC Forum

Build is coming to an end now with the car being mapped on the rolling road ready for some safe running in miles. Next on the list is geometry set up and MOT.
Does anyone have ball park figures for toe, caster and camber for the escort type uprights please?

Cheers, Rich

you could take a look through here, when I did my Phoenix viewtopic.php?f=4&t=590&start=30
I'll be checking the striker in about a week, most fo the work is coming to an end, I should really update the thread!

Taff Striker wrote:Build is coming to an end now with the car being mapped on the rolling road ready for some safe running in miles. Next on the list is geometry set up and MOT.
Does anyone have ball park figures for toe, caster and camber for the escort type uprights please?

Cheers, Rich

Obviously drive it to adjust to driving style but these are the parameters I'd start at ---
TOE ------ Straight ahead or just 1 to 2mm's toe in across both wheels in total .
CASTOR -- Not less than 3.5 but more feels good in slow tight corners plus better stability at high speed ---- explain if you PM
CAMBER -- 1 to 2 degrees negative depending whether track or road also whether an ARB is fitted.

RE - CASTOR
If you're wondering how to check it without equipment , look down from the top centre of the top outer upright pin/bearing --- it should be well back from the lower upright centre pin/bearing. Say 30mm min up to 60mm max.

Thanks for the input guys.
Rob, I am running an anti-roll bar so should I tend more towards 1 or 2 degrees?. Unfortunately most things are a compromise but I would say I'd be tending more towards a track set up.

It's being set up using the wheel alignment equipment at my local Mazda dealer! Mates rates and all that

Rich

Taff Striker wrote:Thanks for the input guys.
Rob, I am running an anti-roll bar so should I tend more towards 1 or 2 degrees?. Unfortunately most things are a compromise but I would say I'd be tending more towards a track set up.

It's being set up using the wheel alignment equipment at my local Mazda dealer! Mates rates and all that

Rich

I would run close to 2 degrees then but keep tyres around the 14 to 16 psi on track depending whether a short blast or circuit sprint , obviously a touch higher for road . Check temperatures across the front tyre section OUTER/MIDDLE/INNER provided you've been really on it on track , once immediately back in the paddock ---- within 6 degrees will indicate the camber is close to perfect OR if the rubber is rolling off the tread evenly.
I forgot to ask what you weighed ? RAKE !!! Start off with 25mm's then adjust up to increase oversteer or down to increase understeer --- whatever suits your driving style.

depending on which kind of front you have, only tracking (toe) is adjustable. i prefer to drive my car with 0, maybe a slight toe-in. checking most track-day cars: they are set with toe out.

does your car use the casted escort TCA on the bottom?

I've made new bottom arms which are adjustable - just hope I've not made them too wide

Ignore the ARB by the way Now have an inboard design





Having a few teathing problems on the rolling road at the moment so wont get round to this until the week after next I recon

Electrical problems nearly resolved so stupid question number 4 re:set up

Should the rake be high at the rear to low at the front or vice versa?

Here's the current ARB set up - stil work in progress



Cheers, Rich

Rear should be higher. Your ARB looks like a copy of what Rob Farley makes and sells.

jeffw wrote:Rear should be higher. Your ARB looks like a copy of what Rob Farley makes and sells.

Correct -- rear higher BUT I wouldn't like to drive your car Taff with the ARB bottom link in the hole closest to the ' bar '