JPSC Forum

The kit has sat in my garage since the end of 2008, woefully ignored and unloved it sat there hunched under a tarpaulin dropping gentle hints that things were not as they should be every time I needed to get something from the garage.

Things have changed...

I have tended to take photos after most garage sessions and upload them into a Photobucket album, it helps me keep focus on moving things forward as well as reminding me that every job no matter how time consuming for apparently little change is a step in the right direction.

The differences between the 'standard' build so far are

Hispec brakes and alloy hubs for the front, 260mm solid discs.
BMW Mini brakes on the rear, discs will end up at about 238mm turned down from 245mm and I will need to make up some filler rings to make the centre bore and stud holes fit properly. Audi 90 2.3 20v Quatro rear discs, Rally Design sell them. The Mini calipers have a 90mm mount spacing so they fit straight on to the Fiesta front uprights plus there is no need to cut down the carrier, if anything I will need to space them out by approx 3mm. The calipers also weigh about 2lbs less each than the Sierra calipers.

The spread sheet on this site helped me to check that the braking components I have chosen will work together.
http://www.bib-nakladnistvo.hr/x1000/

I drilled out the lower taper in the Capri uprights and fitted an insert to better match the 12mm bolt used on the rose joint.

I have a Quaife ATB differential to fit when the time is right.

I will be fabricating a set of pedals rather than reworking donor ones, just waiting for the steel and ptfe rod to arrive.
I plan to use a paddle shift and if possible fit the handbrake lever into the tunnel rather than next to it.
I will hopefully be fabricating my own manifold/exhaust using Rob Collingridge's dimensions for his Fury 4-2-1 system.

I have a set of R1 clocks with a broken front lens (cheap on EBay), mainly as they should help with any diagnostics issue with the engine setup. What I had thought of using in the final build is the Race Technology Dash 2. However, a few days ago I spotted these http://www.translogicuk.com/replacement-gauges-md2.htm which appear to have the advantage that they will connect straight up to the R1 ecu - anybody used these?

Next stage is to get the car down on the wheels and depending on when the materials for the pedals arrive have a first look at dropping the engine in. Speaking of the engine is it worth getting a Barnet coil spring conversion fitted and what about using their friction plates etc. Advice gratefully received.

Hope that has not dragged on too much.
Cheers,
Chris

Looking good. What year R1 are you using?

2003 5pw - I like fuel injection

In that case you have 2 choices with the clutch. Either the barnett convertion but which lots have done and I've not heard of any problems, or put 2 diaphragm springs in instead of one in your current set up. Thats the cheaper option and works well from what I've heard, giving less clutch slip and more feel. The big down side with the diaphragm clutch is that if your pedal arangement causes the release lever to overthrow, then the spring turns inside out (doesn't return on it's own) and then the clutch won't engage. Your left at the side of the road stipping it down.
Whichever one you chose stay with genuine Yamaha plates.

Thanks Adrian, just the sort of help I was hoping to get, particularly your comment about staying with the Yamaha plates. The spring conversion will not break the budget and not using their plates will certainly keep the cost down so that is the way I will go, don't like the idea of over doing it on the clutch and ending up stuck.

I mentioned the Mini calipers I am going for at the rear, I have ended up with just a single 1.15mm washer between the carrier and upright. The carrier aligns with the Audi disc nicely.



The smallest gap between the edge of the disc and pad is 4mm



The gap is slightly more at the centre as the Mini pad radius of curvature suits the 260mm discs they use. I could take the discs down to 240mm or less, but as they fit in the carrier I am not sure it is worth the effort. Any thoughts?

The disc as expected will also need a spacer ring made up as it has a nominal centre bore of 68mm and the Ford hubs are of course 63.4mm. The stud holes in the disc are also 15.5mm so I will also make up some spacers to get the fit to the 12mm studs correct.

eBay bargain of the day is an in tank fuel pump assembly - 99p plus £4.50 postage. Brand new too, unfortunately for the seller he had no idea what car it fitted, the part numbers pointed at various American Ford models. The centre of the code is 9H307 which a bit of research appears to be the pump itself and pretty widely used in Ford vehicles both in the US and UK. The build manual shows the modification of a Fiesta unit so I can just as easily modify this one.

If I get time later I'll see if I can trawl through a brake catalog and find a better fitting pad.
I'd get spacers made for the centre, not the studs.

Thanks Adrian. No rush to get the pads at the moment so if you get the chance to find a better set in the catalog, at your convenience, that would be great. I am planning to make spacers for both, the centre to position the disc and the studs so there is not a void behind the wheel nuts.



Picked up the Hispec kit today and the material for the pedals turned up too. Should keep me busy for a few days

Had time to have a look this afternoon and couldn't see anything. Are you set on those discs? There's probably something that fits better.

There might be a better fit, though I did spend a while looking. I checked out cars with 4 x 108 PCD wheels then started looking up the discs on seekpart24.com and the Audi ones seemed to be the best match. I know the printed National Auto catalogue has a useful section list discs by size with the depth, pcd etc. unfortunately the online/pdf version does not have this!

The discs were only £40 so using something else is not an issue really.