JPSC Forum

Hi all,
So I am working through my car still working on the winter revamp and I took all of the back end apart to get my half shaft reinforced. I snapped one last summer and needed to get the other side done.

Anyway, When dismantling I noticed there were a number of washers used to space between the rear hub and rear upright. About 3-4 per bolt. This seems a weakness and unnecessary but as I am yet to get the car back together I don't know if it is due to spacing the wheel outwards. Does anybody know about these washers and why?

I have taken them out for now and bolted the rear end back together with no major problems but yet to actually get it on the road. I also dont know what model of Striker it is but it is an IRS approx 10 year old design. I also think its using a Sierra hub set up and RAW custom uprights.

Please advice, either way I am now going to have to pay to get the wheels pointing in the correct direction because I don't know how many washers there were on each bolt!!


Thanks in advance,

Biz

The set up on the Fisher Fury IRS (independent rear suspension) includes the washers you describe to be used as shims to adjust the thrust angle of the rear axle, ie to ensure that the axle line is square to the centreline of the car. Have a look at Tim Hoverd's Fury site or in the Fisher website gallery, you will find photo's of the rear suspension that should enable you to compare what you have on your car.
Depending on your confidence and patience you should be able to make a good fist of the set-up yourself although be cautious; the rear set-up is more sensitive than the front - I have had high speed stability problems caused by shot rear dampers while new the front dampers made little difference.
I also have a very unstable Fisher Fury that tramlines and is difficult to place on the road if anyone has any ideas?

Re your tramlining ---- check that it's not towing out , also that the castor is at least 3.5 but that's likely to be non adjustable on yours so is probably ok. More castor can be had by either making new wishbones or trimming off the forward edges of each lower wishbone poly joint tubes THEN washer up behind them . Trimming the poly and inner sleeve will be needed plus a little weld repair to the tube where joining the wishbone .

Thanks RobM. I worked through the settings and my car is now absolutely beautiful, I did it all with a stabila spirit level, steel rule and fine stringline. The car is an ex RGB so was running 2.5deg camber and 1.75mm toe out, and this felt good on smooth roads but not on bumps. I set camber to 1.5deg and toe parallel +/-0.25mm, I was very careful setting the stringline and to be as accurate as possible. I also checked the castor but I'm not confident in the accuracy - I got 0.2-1.2deg n/s and 1.2 - 2.8 o/s; once by me, once by a mechanic. Just drove up to Cadwell and back for trackday and handling was spot on both on track and road.