JPSC Forum

I know a number of you have seen me out and about at shows and trackdays (and once at Le Mans) in my yellow crossflow Striker. Last summer I dropped in a cheap-ish crossflow to replace the knackered one I put in when I built the car back in 2002 ish. The “new” engine is OK, but I am getting the upgrade bug. I really don’t want to go down the crossflow route again, as they are getting old now, and above 135 bhp, get very expensive.

So what are my criteria ?

Well I have at best 135bhp now, probably 120 realistically, and I don’t really want a huge amount more (famous last words !) – a reliable 150 would be good.

The car is pretty minimalist, and weighs about 530kg. It is used for local blasts and trackdays, so a bike engine is a viable option. I do no more than 1,500 miles a year.

The car is live axle, so I think I will struggle to go below a 3.54 diff ratio, which may limit top speed with a bike engine. There is a limit to how much power/torque I can stick through an English axle aswell.

The car has standard solid discs and drums on the back, which have always been enough, whatever I do to the car on track. I don’t want to upgrade these.

I don’t want to contemplate chassis mods to fit a bigger gearbox or engine, but I would consider upgrading my current type 9 standard gearbox.

I do want to move away from carbs, but would be happy to stay with them a little longer if I could move my Weber 40’s across to the new engine, thus spreading any expenditure.

Engines considered:

Mazda/Ford V6 - but it requires chassis mods.
Toyota 4age – seem expensive, and getting on a bit.
Zetec - £650 for a new engine (bargain !), but still an iron block.
Yamaha R1 – but what else would I need to change, and is the diff ratio issue above really a problem.

I don’t want to get into extensive internal engine mechanical mods to get my 150bhp. I want to buy a known good engine and strap it in. I am however happy to play with the electronics, fuelling, mapping etc.

I also don’t want to spend a fortune – I have other expensive hobbies to feed aswell you know (and a family).

So over to you. I need the forum’s collective wisdom to help me work out the best option, what would it cost in total, what other issues do I need to worry about etc etc.

Thanks,

Pete

well, my vote goes to the 4age, you can move over the carbs, all you need is a manifold and a megajolt + timing disc and you should have around 150bhp if its a later model (i'm talking 16v btw)

And you can always put different cams in and put throttle bodies on with an omex or likewise and 170+ is in reach, after that it starts to become expensive with different pistons etc... But 240bhp is possible (formula atlantic 4age engine but costs a fortune)

Best 16v to get is the phase 3 (small port) AE92 4age engine, hard to find but well worth it, they have a stronger crank, piston oil squirters, a better oil drain from the head, better oil pump and water pump. Only downside is that those are in a fwd car, so needs a sump from a rwd engine.

20v is also a possibility, but cost a lot more and not worth doing carbs on them.


guess what engine i have in mine

phase 3 smallport 16v

Mine is also live axle and minimalistic and weights 500kg

Cheapest way would be Zetec on ITBs.

How much are ITBs Jeff ?

Pete

jeffw wrote:Cheapest way would be Zetec on ITBs.

Good question....(though I'd contend that there's nothing wrong with cast iron for the block!!

4A-GE is a great engine (if with CI block). It's light(ish). If you get a "Phase 5", aka 20v Black-Top, it should come with perfectly serviceable TBs as standard. About 150bhp of very revvy (8000) and willing BHP. You'll need a new bell housing (Raw) and an aftermarket ECU -- and, of course, mapping (if you can't blag one!). Upgrade path to more power is limited in comparison with Werner's suggestion of a "Phase 3" (16v) -- but it's better in standard form. Sump is a bit deep. Don't take the chance on a cheap "cut 'n' shut" short sump -- I've got that (expensive) tee-shirt!

Zetec E is good. Guy's (my son) 1800 used for 750MC Kit Car racing gives ca. 175bhp with no mods apart from balancing and fast road cams. And that's on 40DCOEs sleeved down to 37mm. 7300 rpm. Fits the Crossflow bell housing. Catch is that it's tall; even with a classy alloy short sump you might have to modify your bonnet to accommodate speed bumps.

K-Series has well known head gasket (cheese) issues on earlier models, but is rather tall. Good upgrade path though.

I'm currently using a C16XE Vauxhall (though the C20XE is not significantly larger). Heavy, but robust and relatively short. Bell housing required (SBD or (I think) QED). You could probably use your DCOE40s on the 1.6. Upgrades can easily find you 200bhp (at 9000rpm) from the 1.6 and 260 (at more sensible revs) from the 2.0 -- but a fat wallet is required.

For max fun on the road or at track days from minimum investment, I'd recommend you try to accommodate a Zetec.

HTH David

Pete

There are so many different answers to the questions. What you should do (the do it once, do it right school) is get a new Blacktop (£700). Raceline sump & Bellhousing (£650), Jenveys & Omex (£2000) plus bits a pieces (alternator kit, idler kit, engine mounts, 1.8 Zetec flywheel, LRS707 starter. ARP bottom end bolts etc, another £500ish) gives a total of £4k which will give you a reliable 160-170BHP. Throw a set of Pipercams or Cat cams at it to get around 180-185BHP.

Obviously there is money to be saved from that list is you search the forums and buy 2nd hand (I have a 1,8 flywheel & starter for sale and maybe a clutch & bellhousing) get the standard sump cut down etc etc.

Just BEC it Pete!

An '06 R1 will get yo 140+bhp at the wheels and get the weight down under 500kg into the bargain.

adrian

I have a 3.9 diff at the moment Adrian. If I dropped it to 3.54, what would my top speed be ?
(don't want to change my 13" wheels by the way)

Pete

adithorp wrote:Just BEC it Pete!

An '06 R1 will get yo 140+bhp at the wheels and get the weight down under 500kg into the bargain.

adrian

120 mph....according to the calculator here

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/2 ... tid=121319

If you correct that calculator for the higher rev limit on the '06 R1 (1375) then you'd get 130 with your current diff and 205.60/13 tyres and 140 with a 3.54/1 diff.

adrian