Partial re-wire

[PaulW7]

I am currently doing a partial re-wire of my Striker. I originally used the Escort instruments, column switches and loom when I built the car. This together with the requirements of SVA rather dictated where everything went.

Principal changes -
Fitting new Sylva fibreglass dash.
Fitting a Koso Db02 unit with warning lights but will retain separate Oil pressure gauge (not included in the koso) and water temp gauge for early warning.
Fitting a blade fuse box rather than the old ford unit. (Located this on a hinged panel below the Passenger dash rail so both fuses and wiring are more accessible, as the original build was such that I had to remove all the windscreen and dash to locate a disconnected wire, which was a major factor in the car spending the last 5 years in the garage).
Retain column stalks, but have re-located other switches to a "centre console" fitted between Tunnel and dash rail. again the aim is to reduce the amount of wires needing to be managed on the back of the dash itself, allowing it to be removed with the minimum of fuss (hopefully).

So I will reference previous thread on the wisdom of where to locate speedo pickup and magnets etc,

Questions :-
Ford managed to wire the whole car with only the one relay (the flasher). I'm thinking of putting the Headlights and Dip beams on relays to reduce the current drawn through the stalks. Is there anything else worth going through a relay.

Whats the conversion factor from the old Ford fuses (amll 8 amp) to the Blade fuses. I was going to work it based on the fuses used for the equivelent equipment in a Cavalier, (as I happen to have a haynes manual to hand), recommendations appreciated

What have people found as the best way to supply power to multiple fuses, Looping 1-2-3-4 etc or soldering in a "bar" with a single terminal on?

How /where have folk positioned brackets for the sylva dash and did it work or did you get any issues eg rattles?

Regards
Paul.

[Timbo]

HI Paul,

Definitely go for the "BAR" method. Looping wires can come loose all to easilly. I'ts also worth soldering your cables into the crimped end. You'd be suprised how good vibration is at pulling cables out of crimped connections!
As far as relays go, it's welll worth putting your horn, wipers,(if you've got a screen of course!) fuel pump, & fan on a relay, headlamps are a must . Modern cables are much thinner than the older kind, but you need to make sure it is capable of carying the current. The cable must be rated to the same amperage (or greater)as the load. if you skimp on this there will only be one outcome. A burnt out car.....

Tim.