Just as an update on the ARB.
It seems you need to retighten the bolts to the ARB after a few miles (less then 250miles it would seem). I suspect the paint rubs off and leaves them loose.
One of my bolts had completely fallen off, which was a bit annoying (the damage from the flailing drop link was minimal fortunately). These bolts have a nylock on them, but it hasn't got a chance as once the bolt is not tight (FT) the shear forces end up doing a job on the bolt.
Anyway, back together now, not a big deal but thought it worth noting.
Matt
Farley ARB in Phoenix
- matt_gsxr
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- RobMsport
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Re: Farley ARB in Phoenix
Mine have never come loose . The one's normally to re-check are the poly clamp to chassis bolts. If you remember when we talked I did say to pull them up VERY tight . My ' old ' arms must still have a little muscle left then
If there's any doubt about the thread passing the nyloc then grind a little from each tophat spacer at the narrow end , as I said when we were in the shed looking at my own fitting
You're the 3rd one to have this happen now Do more press-ups
If there's any doubt about the thread passing the nyloc then grind a little from each tophat spacer at the narrow end , as I said when we were in the shed looking at my own fitting
You're the 3rd one to have this happen now Do more press-ups
- matt_gsxr
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Re: Farley ARB in Phoenix
Rob,
I should have checked them, just forgot.
I have replaced those fancy rod joint spacers (well the two that aren't lost) with spring washers, these allow the rod-end to articulate, but keep the drop links closer to the ARB,hence reducing torque on the M8 bolt. The thread was going through the nylock, its just that nylocks can resist a bit of vibration but not the kind of forces experienced in this environment (I am assuming it came undone).
Will tighten things up nice and tight.
Thanks,
Matt
p.s. on the battery, I decided to go with a Hayabusa one, only £50 and slight more juicy than the Varley-8
I should have checked them, just forgot.
I have replaced those fancy rod joint spacers (well the two that aren't lost) with spring washers, these allow the rod-end to articulate, but keep the drop links closer to the ARB,hence reducing torque on the M8 bolt. The thread was going through the nylock, its just that nylocks can resist a bit of vibration but not the kind of forces experienced in this environment (I am assuming it came undone).
Will tighten things up nice and tight.
Thanks,
Matt
p.s. on the battery, I decided to go with a Hayabusa one, only £50 and slight more juicy than the Varley-8
- RobMsport
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Re: Farley ARB in Phoenix
The rodend articulates within it's housing --- I strongly recommend you put the spacers in because there's no way the rodend will be gripped properly using spring washers and that will result in the bolt becoming the pivot . If the spring washers are tightened sufficiently to allow the ''rodend'' to be the pivot , then they will cease to be spring washers
- matt_gsxr
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Re: Farley ARB in Phoenix
Agreed, it is no longer a spring washer, it is 100% compressed so it is just a thick small diameter washer with a slot in it.
It is pivoting as it was designed to, and the rod end is now closer to the ARB arm, this decreases the nasty torque on the bolt from the long spacer. I don't doubt the bolt is strong enough to handle it, but it upsets my sensibilities.
I think I will replace the spring washer with a shorter spacer, there is very little misalignment here so I have ordered up some of those.
Matt
It is pivoting as it was designed to, and the rod end is now closer to the ARB arm, this decreases the nasty torque on the bolt from the long spacer. I don't doubt the bolt is strong enough to handle it, but it upsets my sensibilities.
I think I will replace the spring washer with a shorter spacer, there is very little misalignment here so I have ordered up some of those.
Matt
- RobMsport
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Re: Farley ARB in Phoenix
You should have phoned me , I could have sent you some to grind down . Glad you intend using spacers
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