Raw Striker Suspension Geometry & Exhaust

[waddock]

Hi,

I want to change the suspension geometry on the Striker. At present it responds slowly to steering input. I think this is as I have too much toe out on the font. I would like to setup the geometry at home rather than use a specialist. I have seen articles where I can use tape measure and string. Does anyone have a good blog or similar for such a task? The car will be on the track most of the time so if anyone could share some tested settings that would be really helpfull.

I recently lost the end to my packable silencer. Rather than buy a complete new one does anyone have a silencer to sell?

Thanks
Ben

[easisatman]

sorry who is this
www.save it .com?

[petercoll]

There's a thread on this somewhere on this forum, with pics.

Will dig it out.

Pete

[petercoll]

Here you go - DIY Tracking - viewtopic.php?f=4&t=86

Pete

[Maverick440]

If your Striker is an IRS with Siera front uprights the problem with slow steering responce is down to the fact that the steering rack is mounted to low and the caster angle is all wrong. Jeremy never took into account the poor geometery of the siera upright when he made the conversion from the escort upright.

Ive change the rack hight and caster angle on my stariker and its transformed the turn in along with giving improved steering feel, self centering and removing the darting feeling you get on bumpy roads

I posted a whole host of pictures along with drawings and a discription of what need to be done on the Sylva Google group.
If you need a copy on hear let me know and ill dig out the info and post it to this forum.

Quite a few IRS owners have done this mod and all seam to agree it transforms the feel of the car.........

[JohnEM]

I and perhaps Waddock would like to know what settings have been found to be good. I took my striker to a local tyre place and had them adjust it but the system was all 2mm or 4 mm and not in degrees so my request for 1deg. toe in was met with a blank look! Obviously the diameter of your wheels will make a difference as well.
I saw a very neat solution at Castle Combe last year, one of the cars was up on stands and had a length of alloy section clamped to each of the front disks allowing a measurement at one meter from the hub to be made, making a calculation of tow in/out easy.
Cheers JohnEM

[petercoll]

Using the DIY tool described in the link above, I set my toe-in to 2mm, and this seems perfect on track. You can swap between mm and degress with simple trigonometry.

Unfortunately I have not had a play with these settings, but will do so at the next trackday.

Pete