raw striker questions?

[Bi22le]

hi all.
Looking at getting a raw striker. There is one available for 6k with a 4age. Do you think its a good price?
I know 0 to 60 is slower but what about around a track?
Finally how easy is it to drop the old style screen and get a bubbly screen fitted from the new ones?
Thanks

[The Knobs]

Great fun with a 4age. You would need to cut the chassis away where the existing scuttle is to be able to fit the new type. My black car will be up for sale soon with a 20v, full cage etc but not for £6K. Personally i would leave the original scuttle with a cut down screen.

[David]

The "old style" aeroscreen (talk to Mel if in doubt) fits as a direct replacement fot the full screen. Easy job, no cutting. May not look as sexy, but much more sensible (and you can put the original screen back on if you wish to sell).

HTH

D

[David]

The "old style" aeroscreen (talk to Mel if in doubt) fits as a direct replacement fot the full screen. Easy job, no cutting. May not look as sexy, but much more sensible (and you can put the original screen back on if you wish to sell).

Poor pics on this page: http://www.marmelade.co.uk/?page_id=2

HTH

D

[JimSpencer]

Hi

Just so you're aware if you're even vaguely thinking of any club motorsport with it, a considerable number of championships insist on a full screen so keeping it so you can swap back (as per Davids post) might be worth considering - certainly it might effect its re-sale value?

Though sounds good value anyway, got any more info?

[JimSpencer]

Hi

Had a look at the links to the Pics the one about 4 pics down, showing the car from the front is OK.

The basics are:-
You keep the bottom rail of the screen surround
The sides of the screen surround are cut down to about 4 inch plus the 'legs' that bolt onto the scuttle.
You insert a strip of lexan (about 5 inch) into the resulting half frame.

If you re-examine that pic you should be able to make that out I think.

Hope this helps

[David]

Preferable not to cut your existing screen surround IMHO. Undo the four side fixings and ease the full screen up out of the bottom rail with the surround (and integral side legs) still on the screen -- much easier to refit that way. Fabricate new side legs for the aero (Mel will help with alloy and rubber profile dimensions if you need) and tap it down into the bottom rail rubber.

HTH

[Bi22le]

thanks for the response. The one im looking at has a cut down window anyway. I like the bubble window which is why i was looking to change it. I like the bubble version its looks more modern and smooth!
The car im looking at may be owned by someone on here. I found him through locostbuilders. His name is justin or bimbleuk. Seems to know his strikers and 4ages. Also knows mel at raw quite well As far as i know its a 10ish year old chassiss (is this a bad thing or is a raw road chassiss ok at any age?) but has had lots of choice mods done including rear brakes, willwood fronts, gaz golds, capri uprights. It has a 20v engine with accusump fitted.
My main use for it will be road and some track days. I may use it for racing if it seems good enough but thats a long way off!
Price still seem ok?
Any buying advice?

[David]

Wayne

There is not really an established market for kit-cars, so whether it's worth approaching 6k depends on how badly you want it. If it's clean, tidy, well-engineered and undamaged, the price is probably about right.

Strikers are normally pretty robust; assuming the obvious checks (visible chassis members straight, diagonals check, drives in a straight line) are OK, you should look for cracking around the diff-carrier (if it's IRS) and of the lower front wishbones (easy and cheap to replace). Usual mechanical checks (remembering it'll be revving to 8k). One thing to watch: If it has the standard Toyota sump you are going to run the risk of leaving your precious oil on her Majesty's by-ways -- don't, however, replace it with a cheap "cut and weld" job (I killed my first 4A-GE that way). Either live with it or get a proper winged/windowed alloy gem.

HTH