I always used the strap type and velcro'ed them up out of the way.
That roll hoop is for a live axle Phoenix not a Fury, it should (if you fit the plates) fit your Striker.
Tow points on a Striker
-
- Posts: 2605
- Joined: Wed Jul 01, 2009 12:31 pm
- Name: Jeff Wiltshire
-
- Posts: 2605
- Joined: Wed Jul 01, 2009 12:31 pm
- Name: Jeff Wiltshire
Re: Tow points on a Striker
This is what meets the standards for Motorsport UK Peter
https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/li ... 470-000-00
https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/li ... 470-000-00
- peter030371
- Posts: 449
- Joined: Wed Jul 01, 2009 1:37 pm
- Name: Peter Smith
- Location: Hawkhurst
Re: Tow points on a Striker
I had some brackets cut to fit front and rear and take the adjustable type straps. Fitted the rear and now need to do the front. Obviously with the way things are at the moment no rush now! I will post pictures when done.
Editor of 'The Proper Job'
- peter030371
- Posts: 449
- Joined: Wed Jul 01, 2009 1:37 pm
- Name: Peter Smith
- Location: Hawkhurst
Re: Tow points on a Striker
After lots of thought and feedback from various people I have decided the perfect answer does not exist so i stopped looking for it.
My idea for solid points front and rear were shelved. If you hit a solid point of the chassis at any speed the chassis is damaged. At least if a flexible strap damages bodywork whilst being towed its just body work. So I ordered two adjustable TRS two straps and got on with it.
I started out getting some plates cut from steel to clamp around the front and rear chassis rails. I used some spacers to allow me to bolt it all up tight without crushing the chassis tubes. The spacers also stop it twisting as they make it a snug fit around the chassis tubes. With suitable nuts and bolts they look like this off the car
I offered them up a few times and adjusted the length adding tie wraps to holds the excess material and double as fixings for heavy duty Velcro.
Front bolted in place without the nose cone'
With the nose cone plus folded out the way.
Rear fitted on the diff carrier.
Finally a few 'Tow' signs to help the marshals find them if ever needed
If needed both ends just pull down to release from the Velco and both extend out past the bodywork once pulled down. With any luck I will never need them :-)
My idea for solid points front and rear were shelved. If you hit a solid point of the chassis at any speed the chassis is damaged. At least if a flexible strap damages bodywork whilst being towed its just body work. So I ordered two adjustable TRS two straps and got on with it.
I started out getting some plates cut from steel to clamp around the front and rear chassis rails. I used some spacers to allow me to bolt it all up tight without crushing the chassis tubes. The spacers also stop it twisting as they make it a snug fit around the chassis tubes. With suitable nuts and bolts they look like this off the car
I offered them up a few times and adjusted the length adding tie wraps to holds the excess material and double as fixings for heavy duty Velcro.
Front bolted in place without the nose cone'
With the nose cone plus folded out the way.
Rear fitted on the diff carrier.
Finally a few 'Tow' signs to help the marshals find them if ever needed
If needed both ends just pull down to release from the Velco and both extend out past the bodywork once pulled down. With any luck I will never need them :-)
Editor of 'The Proper Job'
-
- Posts: 74
- Joined: Mon Nov 07, 2016 11:40 pm
- Name: Anthony
Return to “Jeremy Philips Cars”
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 9 guests