Thank you everyone.
I have put some mileage on the car now and it doesn't give me confidence to move on at any speed.
It's too jittery, and too many clonks. I have decided to do a refurb of the rear axle as there is too much clonk , spyder joint and rotoflex coupling on prop are shot also.
I think easiest to drop the lot and do a derust on the suspension arms etc and unwind the suspension etc. Fortunatly I have a friend who has rebuilt many English difs.
Two questions though.
Is the petrol tank from a midget? That looks ropey too.
And is there a suspension rubber kit or what size to use for trailing and tie rods etc? Are the bushes rubber or polyurethane?
Thanks
Joh
Newbie questions
- pigeondave
- Posts: 395
- Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2011 4:16 pm
- Name: David Malenczak
- Location: Brighton
Re: Newbie questions
You need to get a few pairs of E.A.R Earsoft FX Ear Plugs
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00 ... UTF8&psc=1
This will lessen the clonking noises.
Yes the tank in the early cars is from a midget. I've had a new one made by Neil Dunne
https://www.neildunnewelding.co.uk/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/pigeondave/9277790569/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/pigeondave/9280576640/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/pigeondave/9277790089/
Rubber bushes are better, as they give more compliance. DON'T Rod end both ends of the trailing arms, if you're thinking of going that way.
Steve at Fury sports cars can provide the bushes or google metalastic bush. The imperial 1/2" ones have a better tolerance than the M12 ones.
The M12 bolt seems to wiggle in the hole a lot mor than 1/2" ones.
I've just clicked the first google result. Not sure if they're imperial sizes.
https://www.polymax.co.uk/anti-vibratio ... ded-bushes
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00 ... UTF8&psc=1
This will lessen the clonking noises.
Yes the tank in the early cars is from a midget. I've had a new one made by Neil Dunne
https://www.neildunnewelding.co.uk/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/pigeondave/9277790569/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/pigeondave/9280576640/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/pigeondave/9277790089/
Rubber bushes are better, as they give more compliance. DON'T Rod end both ends of the trailing arms, if you're thinking of going that way.
Steve at Fury sports cars can provide the bushes or google metalastic bush. The imperial 1/2" ones have a better tolerance than the M12 ones.
The M12 bolt seems to wiggle in the hole a lot mor than 1/2" ones.
I've just clicked the first google result. Not sure if they're imperial sizes.
https://www.polymax.co.uk/anti-vibratio ... ded-bushes
-
- Posts: 500
- Joined: Tue Jun 02, 2009 4:25 pm
Re: Newbie questions
If it's alive axle, then the clunking on corners is probably the diff hitting the chassis as the axle moves, as Dave said, just wear earplugs! Striker does this when two up and loaded with Luggage, it's never been an issue!! YOu also hear EVERYTHING in a kitcar.....you'll get used to it!
Edd
Edd
-
- Posts: 2605
- Joined: Wed Jul 01, 2009 12:31 pm
- Name: Jeff Wiltshire
Re: Newbie questions
You may well need an adjustable panard rod to centre the axle. I had to do this in the Phoenix to ensure the diff flange wasn't touching the tunnel sides.
-
- Posts: 34
- Joined: Tue Dec 05, 2017 11:06 am
- Name: James
Re: Newbie questions
I get the sentiment, all the noises used to freak me out too in the Striker, now I'm semi-used to it.
Once I took a slow corner too fast and I heard something hit something, pretty violently, I thought the wheel was hitting the arch, which could be the case, but reading this maybe it was the diff/axle hitting the chassis. Neither is very reassuring though
Once I took a slow corner too fast and I heard something hit something, pretty violently, I thought the wheel was hitting the arch, which could be the case, but reading this maybe it was the diff/axle hitting the chassis. Neither is very reassuring though
- pigeondave
- Posts: 395
- Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2011 4:16 pm
- Name: David Malenczak
- Location: Brighton
Re: Newbie questions
I had the Titan diff plates refreshed and it now sequels and clunks more than ever going round slow corners.
It is off putting. I drown it out with more revs
It is off putting. I drown it out with more revs
-
- Posts: 2605
- Joined: Wed Jul 01, 2009 12:31 pm
- Name: Jeff Wiltshire
Re: Newbie questions
HighOnThunder wrote:I get the sentiment, all the noises used to freak me out too in the Striker, now I'm semi-used to it.
Once I took a slow corner too fast and I heard something hit something, pretty violently, I thought the wheel was hitting the arch, which could be the case, but reading this maybe it was the diff/axle hitting the chassis. Neither is very reassuring though
Tends to be the diff flange hitting the inside of the tunnel, have a look towards the back of the tunnel and you will likely see witness marks.
-
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Sun Sep 16, 2018 6:35 pm
- Name: John Cunningham
Re: Newbie questions
Sorry all I have been busy on my garage move ,fixing leaks and maintenance and ensuring enough workshop tools to do the work.
I fully understand the noise for everything and hearing it. Add my shouts of pain when deep potholes arrive. Suspension is too hard for road use, its too jittery. It runs on 14in minilite and looks like in the past the tyres have rubbed through the headlight bowls.
The diff may be hitting somewhere I ll have a look, not much room anywhere and gearbox looks as if it touches at times.
Lots to do mainly due to the surface rust and oil leaks so all will be done anyway starting from the back.
The front access is pretty poor for most things. I am considering a flip conversion or if easier lift off front end as the work up front is tidying up wires and routing of pipework which I guess was done before the body went on.
Are there templates or a guide available for this conversion?
Thanks
I fully understand the noise for everything and hearing it. Add my shouts of pain when deep potholes arrive. Suspension is too hard for road use, its too jittery. It runs on 14in minilite and looks like in the past the tyres have rubbed through the headlight bowls.
The diff may be hitting somewhere I ll have a look, not much room anywhere and gearbox looks as if it touches at times.
Lots to do mainly due to the surface rust and oil leaks so all will be done anyway starting from the back.
The front access is pretty poor for most things. I am considering a flip conversion or if easier lift off front end as the work up front is tidying up wires and routing of pipework which I guess was done before the body went on.
Are there templates or a guide available for this conversion?
Thanks
-
- Posts: 25
- Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2009 9:49 pm
- Name: Ruari Coles
Re: Newbie questions
I'd try to avoid modifying the front bodywork if you can... (just my opinion), there are a few Stylus' modified to have a flip front and it always looks like an afterthought, especially with the feature line for the original bonnet remaining. I'd suffer the pain of the smaller hatch for your restoration then once you're done you'll barely need to open it again
Take the engine out perhaps for better access around the engine bay area to get everything else around it tidied up... ? (could be quicker than modifying the bodywork anyway?)
Take the engine out perhaps for better access around the engine bay area to get everything else around it tidied up... ? (could be quicker than modifying the bodywork anyway?)
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