Newbie questions

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Johnc2435
Posts: 12
Joined: Sun Sep 16, 2018 6:35 pm
Name: John Cunningham

Re: Newbie questions

Postby Johnc2435 » Mon May 20, 2019 11:15 am

Thank you everyone.

I have put some mileage on the car now and it doesn't give me confidence to move on at any speed.
It's too jittery, and too many clonks. I have decided to do a refurb of the rear axle as there is too much clonk , spyder joint and rotoflex coupling on prop are shot also.

I think easiest to drop the lot and do a derust on the suspension arms etc and unwind the suspension etc. Fortunatly I have a friend who has rebuilt many English difs.

Two questions though.

Is the petrol tank from a midget? That looks ropey too.
And is there a suspension rubber kit or what size to use for trailing and tie rods etc? Are the bushes rubber or polyurethane?

Thanks
Joh

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pigeondave
Posts: 332
Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2011 4:16 pm
Name: David Malenczak
Location: Brighton

Re: Newbie questions

Postby pigeondave » Mon May 20, 2019 1:34 pm

You need to get a few pairs of E.A.R Earsoft FX Ear Plugs
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00 ... UTF8&psc=1

This will lessen the clonking noises.

Yes the tank in the early cars is from a midget. I've had a new one made by Neil Dunne
https://www.neildunnewelding.co.uk/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/pigeondave/9277790569/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/pigeondave/9280576640/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/pigeondave/9277790089/

Rubber bushes are better, as they give more compliance. DON'T Rod end both ends of the trailing arms, if you're thinking of going that way.

Steve at Fury sports cars can provide the bushes or google metalastic bush. The imperial 1/2" ones have a better tolerance than the M12 ones.
The M12 bolt seems to wiggle in the hole a lot mor than 1/2" ones.
I've just clicked the first google result. Not sure if they're imperial sizes.
https://www.polymax.co.uk/anti-vibratio ... ded-bushes

Edd
Posts: 399
Joined: Tue Jun 02, 2009 4:25 pm

Re: Newbie questions

Postby Edd » Wed May 22, 2019 6:58 pm

If it's alive axle, then the clunking on corners is probably the diff hitting the chassis as the axle moves, as Dave said, just wear earplugs! Striker does this when two up and loaded with Luggage, it's never been an issue!! YOu also hear EVERYTHING in a kitcar.....you'll get used to it!
Edd

jeffw
Posts: 2601
Joined: Wed Jul 01, 2009 12:31 pm
Name: Jeff Wiltshire

Re: Newbie questions

Postby jeffw » Fri May 24, 2019 7:01 am

You may well need an adjustable panard rod to centre the axle. I had to do this in the Phoenix to ensure the diff flange wasn't touching the tunnel sides.

HighOnThunder
Posts: 34
Joined: Tue Dec 05, 2017 11:06 am
Name: James

Re: Newbie questions

Postby HighOnThunder » Fri May 24, 2019 9:07 am

I get the sentiment, all the noises used to freak me out too in the Striker, now I'm semi-used to it.

Once I took a slow corner too fast and I heard something hit something, pretty violently, I thought the wheel was hitting the arch, which could be the case, but reading this maybe it was the diff/axle hitting the chassis. Neither is very reassuring though :lol:

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pigeondave
Posts: 332
Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2011 4:16 pm
Name: David Malenczak
Location: Brighton

Re: Newbie questions

Postby pigeondave » Fri May 24, 2019 1:31 pm

I had the Titan diff plates refreshed and it now sequels and clunks more than ever going round slow corners.

It is off putting. I drown it out with more revs :lol:

jeffw
Posts: 2601
Joined: Wed Jul 01, 2009 12:31 pm
Name: Jeff Wiltshire

Re: Newbie questions

Postby jeffw » Wed May 29, 2019 12:54 pm

HighOnThunder wrote:I get the sentiment, all the noises used to freak me out too in the Striker, now I'm semi-used to it.

Once I took a slow corner too fast and I heard something hit something, pretty violently, I thought the wheel was hitting the arch, which could be the case, but reading this maybe it was the diff/axle hitting the chassis. Neither is very reassuring though :lol:


Tends to be the diff flange hitting the inside of the tunnel, have a look towards the back of the tunnel and you will likely see witness marks.

Johnc2435
Posts: 12
Joined: Sun Sep 16, 2018 6:35 pm
Name: John Cunningham

Re: Newbie questions

Postby Johnc2435 » Sat Jun 01, 2019 3:08 pm

Sorry all I have been busy on my garage move ,fixing leaks and maintenance and ensuring enough workshop tools to do the work.

I fully understand the noise for everything and hearing it. Add my shouts of pain when deep potholes arrive. Suspension is too hard for road use, its too jittery. It runs on 14in minilite and looks like in the past the tyres have rubbed through the headlight bowls.

The diff may be hitting somewhere I ll have a look, not much room anywhere and gearbox looks as if it touches at times.

Lots to do mainly due to the surface rust and oil leaks so all will be done anyway starting from the back.

The front access is pretty poor for most things. I am considering a flip conversion or if easier lift off front end as the work up front is tidying up wires and routing of pipework which I guess was done before the body went on.
Are there templates or a guide available for this conversion?

Thanks

ruaricoles
Posts: 16
Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2009 9:49 pm
Name: Ruari Coles

Re: Newbie questions

Postby ruaricoles » Thu Jun 06, 2019 9:04 pm

I'd try to avoid modifying the front bodywork if you can... (just my opinion), there are a few Stylus' modified to have a flip front and it always looks like an afterthought, especially with the feature line for the original bonnet remaining. I'd suffer the pain of the smaller hatch for your restoration then once you're done you'll barely need to open it again ;)

Take the engine out perhaps for better access around the engine bay area to get everything else around it tidied up... ? (could be quicker than modifying the bodywork anyway?)


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