Good morning,
As the Sun was out, I thought it would be rude not to take out the Fury on the chilly weekend we just had
Just a few questions really, After a warm up and about 30mins of steady driving the oil temps never exceeded 48/50c. Is this normal? I am completely new to BEC and their characteristics
Bit hesitant to give it the beans at 50c.. Or am I being too over careful?
Oil is Castrol Power 1 using the standard R1 5PW oil/water cooler
VW Polo rad
Regards
Chris
Oil Temps
- AdamR
- Posts: 59
- Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 3:58 pm
- Name: Adam Read
Re: Oil Temps
Saw Adi's reply on LCB... but just to back that up - check the stat, water should be running at at least 70 deg which will drag oil temps up due to the heat exchanger.
The oil will protect sufficiently from around 50 deg, you can start using wider throttle openings and more revs from this point which will bring the oil temp up some more pretty quickly
The oil will protect sufficiently from around 50 deg, you can start using wider throttle openings and more revs from this point which will bring the oil temp up some more pretty quickly
- Cpatten88
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Tue Sep 27, 2016 10:24 pm
- Name: Chris Patten
- AdamR
- Posts: 59
- Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 3:58 pm
- Name: Adam Read
Re: Oil Temps
No probs.
Yeah, it's usually a two-piece affair, with the 'stat itself sandwiched in between. This isn't an R1 but gives you the idea...
A good test is to stick it in a cup of boiling water then let everything cool down. Stat should open fully when the water is 'fresh', then gradually close as it cools down.
There's often a gasket or O ring between the two halves of the housing that needs taking care of - either replacement if it's a gasket (or you can make one with a bit of cereal box and some RTV) or a light smear of silicone grease if it's an O ring.
Edit: Here's a 5PW stat housing in bits:
Yeah, it's usually a two-piece affair, with the 'stat itself sandwiched in between. This isn't an R1 but gives you the idea...
A good test is to stick it in a cup of boiling water then let everything cool down. Stat should open fully when the water is 'fresh', then gradually close as it cools down.
There's often a gasket or O ring between the two halves of the housing that needs taking care of - either replacement if it's a gasket (or you can make one with a bit of cereal box and some RTV) or a light smear of silicone grease if it's an O ring.
Edit: Here's a 5PW stat housing in bits:
- Cpatten88
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Tue Sep 27, 2016 10:24 pm
- Name: Chris Patten
Re: Oil Temps
Thanks Adam!
Will try and carefully prise it open at the weekend.
Have been looking on the web just incase for a replacement (Part: 4FM-12410-00) but struggling with any sites selling them in the UK
Will try and carefully prise it open at the weekend.
Have been looking on the web just incase for a replacement (Part: 4FM-12410-00) but struggling with any sites selling them in the UK
- adithorp
- Posts: 1198
- Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2009 8:26 am
- Name: adrian thorp
- Location: Hyde, Manchester
Re: Oil Temps
Have you got the Yamaha 5pw workshop manual? If not PM me your email address and I'll send you the file.
- Cpatten88
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Tue Sep 27, 2016 10:24 pm
- Name: Chris Patten
Re: Oil Temps
Cheers Adi, I have a Haynes manual that I used
Well took it apart and it wasn't stuck open. Tested it opened and closed with some boiling water and that looked all fine too
Well took it apart and it wasn't stuck open. Tested it opened and closed with some boiling water and that looked all fine too
- adithorp
- Posts: 1198
- Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2009 8:26 am
- Name: adrian thorp
- Location: Hyde, Manchester
Re: Oil Temps
If you want a copy of the Yam one as well just let me know.
Where is your oil cooler water out/return plumbed into?
In original config' I think they go into the rad bottom hose, so feeding back into the engine and all water to the rad goes via stat and top hose. In cars they are often plumbed into the rad top hose (mine was). If done that way the oil cooler return goes through the rad before returning to the engine, giving partial cooling without 'stat control. Thats fine on track or in hot weather but slows warm up in cold conditions.
Where is your oil cooler water out/return plumbed into?
In original config' I think they go into the rad bottom hose, so feeding back into the engine and all water to the rad goes via stat and top hose. In cars they are often plumbed into the rad top hose (mine was). If done that way the oil cooler return goes through the rad before returning to the engine, giving partial cooling without 'stat control. Thats fine on track or in hot weather but slows warm up in cold conditions.
- Cpatten88
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Tue Sep 27, 2016 10:24 pm
- Name: Chris Patten
Re: Oil Temps
Sure thanks, will do.
I cant remember from the top of my heat as Fury HQ set it all up for me
I cant remember from the top of my heat as Fury HQ set it all up for me
- adithorp
- Posts: 1198
- Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2009 8:26 am
- Name: adrian thorp
- Location: Hyde, Manchester
Re: Oil Temps
Gotyour message and will send it tonight.
Are you using the Yam' clocks or aftermarket ones? Just wondering how true your readings are. An infrared thermometer is useful for double checking. If you've not got one they had them in Aldi a few weeks ago forabout £12 and might still have a few. Very handy for checking engine temps.
Are you using the Yam' clocks or aftermarket ones? Just wondering how true your readings are. An infrared thermometer is useful for double checking. If you've not got one they had them in Aldi a few weeks ago forabout £12 and might still have a few. Very handy for checking engine temps.
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