JPSC Forum

Hello All

I am new to the forum and have finally got myself registered properly ! - I am building a Fury, slowly.. in Wycombe, Buckinghamshire.

Its a 1993 Live axle chassis that I bought second hand. The chassis had never been assembled, apart from suffering some bodging to the pedal box and rear frame tubing.

I have now got the build to a rolling stage - It is using a 1.8 k-series and box from a Caterham, including all loom / gauges / switches to make life a lot easier.

Aiming to get it on the road next summer.. but just enjoying the steady build so far !

cheers
Richard

Welcome Richard -- I'm sure lots of others will echo that sentiment.

This forum is a bit quiet, but if you are prepared to wait until people log on you'll find a fund of Fury building (and upgrading) experience. K-Series might be a different matter -- haven't seen too many people mentioning them, but they may simply be lurking .

Good luck with the build

David

Richard B wrote:I am new to the forum and have finally got myself registered properly ! - I am building a Fury, slowly.. in Wycombe, Buckinghamshire.

Hello, I got my Fury on the road last year, 1600 Xflow on Dellortos, so probably a little less power than yours, but I have to say it is FANTASTIC. Get in touch if you find yourself stumped, I took hundreds of photos during the build. I'm guessing you have a shell with doors & hinges without the bracing bars, if so I have some mods that stop the doors going floppy you may be interested in when you get round to it.

I also have a way of getting the classic bonnet headlights & indicators high enough for IVA if you need that.

Good luck!

T

Hi T

Yup - that is exactly the challenge I am working on. I have assembled a full selection of used bodywork - came off three different cars, so a right patchwork that has consumed many an hour of filling, sanding.. head scratching and occasionally swearing.

The floppy doors/scuttle issue is exactly what I am trying to solve. My solution (so far and yet untested) is to have metal plates in thin ally that run along the inner part of the tub moulding (just inside of the door seal aperture). Like an inner sill cover where your elbow sits which will also cover the bare grp matting. The plan is to rivet through that and the grp into the chassis rails. Where this meets the dashboard 'hoop' tubing, this plate folds in on itself (forming a stengthening support to the screen / scuttle moulding) and then riveted through; both into the dash tube upright and into a small grp section bonded into the inner scuttle (below glass and above the hinge).

Sounds a bit nuts and hard to explain, but the most simple and discrete solution I can fathom so far. Any other suggestion welcome though - especially one that has been proved succesful !

cheers
Richard

Richard B wrote:Any other suggestion welcome though - especially one that has been proved succesful !

OK, I have no photos at work here with me - but:-

Imagine the hinge, the body side consists of two angles yes? First I found a robust tube & bolted it to the end away from the hinge pin so its now a square with angles top & bottom. That stops the body side of the hinge twisting. I then got some 25 x 25 x 1.5mm (ish) aluminium angles & fitted them where the hinge sits so they ran up / down, & were far enough apart that the hinge sat inside the "U" formed by the angles & the body return - they had to be trimmed to clear the hinge & the outer one was bent at the top to fit into the curve of the body. Before they were finally fitted, they were drilled to match the hinge holes in the body then had riv-nuts fitted.

Next I fitted an aluminium bracket between the pod & the body return below the hinge, the horizontal (fore - aft) bolts holding this angle go through the ends of the aluminium uprights (two more riv-nuts) the vertical ones go through the pod upper face, into more riv-nuts in the ends of two more aluminium angles rivited to the inside of the pod upper skin & running forward. Inside the bonnet, the angles holding the pod upper skin to the front face of the tub also pass through these angles.

Phew - still with me? The net effect is that the hinge frame itself is stiffened (by the tube), it bolts to a stiffened body return & all that is braced through the pod into the firewall so any loads are difused through metalwork. The doors DO NOT droop at all & the body return around the hinge is not cracked.

It all sounds horribly complex, but weighs less than the latest braced hinges, certainly costs a lot less & is entirely hidden. Both pods are still removable too. If I haven't made myself clear (entirely likely) I can e-mail my build diary which has details & photos. PM me your e-mail.

Two more things. to make a door travel stop, I simply looped some nylon webbing round the new brace tube on the hinge & bolted it between the door inner & the hinge arm. light, cheap, immensely strong & doesn't rattle when the door's shut. The last important point is to not cut the hinge hole in the body with square corners because they WILL crack, I tried to get about 6 - 10 mm radii at each corner. Sorry it's a bit

T

Hi Tony

You have a pm

ta
Richard

Another High Wycombe Sylva!!

Welcome to the clan, If you ever need any help with the car I'm near Downley!

Tom