New Fury Owner near Chorley

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pigeondave
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Re: New Fury Owner near Chorley

Postby pigeondave » Thu Jul 30, 2015 1:51 pm

adithorp wrote:
If it's got Sierra front uprights, it might be worth checking for bump steer. I recently checked mine and found varied by several degrees between full droop/bump. Repositioning the rack has cured it and it's a lot less twitchy. I intend to do a write up when I get time.


That'd be interesting, I'd like to read that. :ugeek:

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AdamR
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Re: New Fury Owner near Chorley

Postby AdamR » Thu Jul 30, 2015 2:57 pm

Definitely would make a good write-up! In a nutshell though: jack the front of the car up til the wheels just start to lift, measure toe. lower it to normal ride height, measure toe. Drop the front end right down til it's on the bump stops, measure toe. Can do extra points in between if you like, but this gives a good idea of which way the toe changes (in or out) in relation to which way the suspension is travelling.

Some prefer no bump steer, but others like a little bit of toe out under compression, as this helps the car to be more 'turn-y' when there is weight on the nose (on corner entry), but less drag in a straight line (toe angle gives scrub as the tyres are being pushed down the tarmac in a slightly sideways condition). Typically, the 'best handling cars' (stuff like Elises, MX-5s, etc) will use a small amount of toe out under bump.

The opposite is generally accepted for the rear though, as toe in is a stable condition (that is, the car will continue on it's own path until you interrupt it, whereas toe out the car tries to steer itself) - so you want the rear end to toe in a touch when it squats as you get on the power to prevent wild oversteer.

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adithorp
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Re: New Fury Owner near Chorley

Postby adithorp » Thu Jul 30, 2015 4:46 pm

Adam, Dave knows all about it (he'll claim it was him who got me to check mine) and is just taking the piss because he's been (a) gloating over being right, and (b) pestering me to write it up, ever since. ;)

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pigeondave
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Re: New Fury Owner near Chorley

Postby pigeondave » Thu Jul 30, 2015 4:55 pm

adithorp wrote:Adam, Dave knows all about it (he'll claim it was him who got me to check mine) and is just taking the piss because he's been (a) gloating over being right, and (b) pestering me to write it up, ever since. ;)


Dunno what you're on about :lol:

Did you use this method that you found on youtube, but not listen how far away to put the mirror so you had to call someone to double check that the bumpsteer was giving almost 3deg of change? :roll: :lol:

https://youtu.be/LO07qmJ9zkk

Next up Adi is moving the top and bottom wishbones to get less camber gain on the front.

Watch this space......

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adithorp
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Re: New Fury Owner near Chorley

Postby adithorp » Thu Jul 30, 2015 5:17 pm

I might get around to that when either... Hell freezes over or Dave keeps up with me. (in order of likelyhood)

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AdamR
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Re: New Fury Owner near Chorley

Postby AdamR » Tue Aug 04, 2015 9:13 am

:lol: Good to see the banter is strong here...

And apologies - my internet sarcasm detector is on the blink, clearly!

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AdamR
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Re: New Fury Owner near Chorley

Postby AdamR » Tue Sep 08, 2015 10:10 am

Well, a month on and a lot of work completed so far! Mostly mechanical work, sorting some chassis cracks, removing that awful carbon wrap and the stickers, full geo, corner weighting, correcting bump steer (still a bit more to do on that), changing seats, harnesses, tweaking the paddle setup and all the pedals, bled the brakes, new front pads, plus more I've forgotten.


Had it on the dyno... same place as it was originally mapped, curve is totally different and it made 15bhp more without any tuning. Result.

Image


Then this happened and it ground to a halt on the dyno:

Image

So that set things back a touch.

Managed to get a track day in but there were some reasonable niggles, which will need ironing out before it gets used like this again.

Image


Need to do before next outing:

1. Brakes - fitted some Poly As to the front to prevent fade, but their CoF is extremely high. This means the rear is way under-braked and they have very little feel, so I have a set of twin masters and a bias bar ready to go in.

2. Cooling - water temp gradually climbs through a session. I am hoping that ducting in the rad will sort this.

3. Downshifting - it's very tricky at the moment, there's such little feel to the clutch and the short braking distances combined with the sequential box mean there's not really enough time to row down the gears. You'll see in the vid below that I had to brake early, coast on the clutch and it was still difficult to get the downshifts in. Plan is to move the pivot on the clutch pedal to give more feel and make up an auto blipper for the downshift - I dug out an old MX-5 starter motor, so have nicked the solenoid from that and will make a circuit up with switches on the brake, clutch, paddle and dash (to disable it for road driving!). All four will have to 'fire' to activate the blip. It may or may not work, but I should be able to adjust how far the TBs open and for how long, so sod paying over £500 for a 'proper' system :D

4. Gearbox 'issues' - it got stuck in neutral at one point, then 'cured' itself. I'm not sure exactly how the bike 'box works so this will need investigating... I'm wondering about an old / weak spring or sticky selector fork or something.


Would be good to do before next time:

5. Steering - it's a little more vague than I'd like at the moment, due to loads of play / movement in the column. This also makes the paddles (which are mounted to the column) a little flexy.

6. Dampers - they aren't great. I am sure the seals will last for years but I'd rather have suspension that works :lol:

7. High speed understeer - lots of air going under the nose so high speed cornering g is way down on low speed. Car came with a (massive) splitter which need to work out how to fit without it preventing the bonnet from opening.

8. Airbox has developed a couple of pretty long cracks on the welds, Araldite will sort this for now (I had a fuel tank repaired like this for a few weeks!).

9. Having no way to easily adjust the chassis balance is frustrating, it's not bad at the moment but not perfect, so I'd like to go down on front springs (they are about 30-35% too hard at the moment) and make up a front ARB, bearing in mind that it needs to be soft enough to cope with this setup yet can be adjusted stiff enough to work with a rear bar in future. 5/8" solid bar, I think...


Video from Anglesey on Friday: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DWGJZCC-u20

So far - it's exactly what I wanted! Fun to drive and fun to tinker with :)

jeffw
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Re: New Fury Owner near Chorley

Postby jeffw » Tue Sep 08, 2015 11:18 am

Most of the Wilwood pads are nasty. Look at Mintex 1144 or Hawk DTC30 for decent track pads.

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AdamR
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Re: New Fury Owner near Chorley

Postby AdamR » Tue Sep 08, 2015 11:24 am

I've had both of those before... the Mintex were turd (melted), the Hawks were alright (but started falling off the backings), so thought I'd try something else. Really wanted DS1.11s but they don't do them for Powerlite calipers without ordering 10 sets :(

jeffw
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Re: New Fury Owner near Chorley

Postby jeffw » Tue Sep 08, 2015 1:00 pm

I use DTC30 on the Phoenix without an issue...


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